SCILLY SCENES
A TASTE OF OUR OWN SHANGRI LA
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( Just 28 miles off the coast at Lands End !)
(N. B For speed in downloading, the compilations below are compressed. To view the images in the uncompressed format, click each one in turn. You will then be able to increase the image further by clicking again)
Pat and I have been visiting these islands at least yearly for the past 15 or so years, and, if anything, their attractions become increasingly irresistible as the years slip by.
This is not solely because of the beauty of the place itself - in most respects it has not changed since we first set eyes on the archipelago - but returning as we do at the same time in August each year, we look forward to renewing contact with old acquaintances (perhaps that should be friends!) both among the islanders themselves and the many visitors who, like ourselves, having once visited Scilly feel bound to return year by year. In comparison with many, Pat and I are still newcomers to this holiday as we have met folk who have been coming here for over 50 years - and long may they continue to do so!
We keep the commentary brief, preferring to let the images tell most of the story. However, if any visitor to this page would like more information, they are welcome to contact us by email and we will try to help or point to others who can.
There are two basic ways of reaching Scilly - by air or by sea. Air travel is
provided by helicopter or by single-wing 'plane.
We prefer the sea route,
which takes approx 2.75 hours, sailing from Penzance on the Isle of Scillies
Steamship Company vessel, "Scillonian III", preferring as we do to enjoy the
trip along the Cornish coast before departing for the Isles, which we see slowly
appearing at the horizon, while we enjoy a drink and Cornish Pasties (The
REAL ones, made from the Cornish recipe, that is). This year (2007),we arrived
in bright, sunny weather, having left a rather overcast and chilly Penzance at
9:30 am.
Throughout the voyage, the visibility was clear, and the sun emerged, with the islands, about half way through the voyage.
The first compilation (right) is of the first pictures taken towards the end of the voyage and feature St Martin's (the most Northerly Island), two aspects of St Mary's, the larger island - on which we stay - and then pictures taken on our arrival at St. Mary's quay.
The Scillonian always has a large number of day trippers to the islands - this is how we first came to Scilly - and we are always pleased when such visitors get the chance to see it in the splendour of good weather.
Day trippers are always warned to wear sun protection as the particularly clear air here makes it all too easy to become sunburnt quickly.
St. Mary's...
....has
been our base on Scilly
from the first year we stayed there. For many
years, we were regular guests of Colin & Ann Mumford at the Godolphin Hotel, on
Church Street but, following their retirement, we have become happily and very
comfortably ensconced at Tregarthen's Hotel, which is conveniently near to one
of our favourite Scillies locations - the harbour.
St Mary's
has all the features we desire and we could happily spend all our time there if
need be ; Hugh
Town
itself has a variety of shops for provisions (for
self-caterers, etc), restaurants, public houses, gift shops, chemists,
as well as meeting the
spiritual needs of Christians, through its various churches (most denominations)
Indeed , it fully caters for most tastes and is a great base for a restful holiday.
This said, there are also a great variety of outlets for the more active, as St Mary's boasts a golf club, horse riding school, boating, diving centres, and many opportunities for various forms of boating. The Gig racing of Wednesday and Friday nights is quite a spectacle, based on old Scillonian traditions - (well worth reading about) - and always brings an air of excitement. Additionally, there is an excellent museum, entertainment in the evenings brought to visitors by the various musical and theatrical societies on the island, plus slide shows and talks for those who wish to know more about Scilly.
St Mary's is an ideal place for children because of the many activities that they can enjoy, with or without their parents, in complete safety. Walking around the island is a particular joy, and those in more of a hurry to see everything can opt for a hired bicycle, or take one of the bus trips on offer around the island.
original main
residential area on the
island is Old Town, where the original quay was built in the 15th century,
in what is now called Old Town Bay, to
serve the
needs of Ennor Castle (very few remains - in private grounds). This small
community also has a store and places where visitors can take refreshment, so can even
make a day of it in this more peaceful place.This is a favourite part of St Mary's for many regular visitors - do not fail to visit Old Town Church, the very old, if much reduced original church at St Mary's and the last resting place of many seafarers, both local and also unfortunates who were shipwrecked in Scilly.
There are also a number of other folk who over a number of years became residents, and these include even a number of politicians - Lord Wilson of Rievaulx (former British Prime Minister) and Ray Gunter, who served in Lord Wilson's administration for a number of years.
A visit
to Old Town would not be
complete for us without a visit to see John Bourdeaux who has now returned to his
original art, painting, and has thus enhanced his already enviable reputation
as a potter of considerable skill and distinction.
All visitors are made to feel very welcome and there must now be thousands who now like to think of him as a friend as well as a provider of superbly innovative works of art, developing as he has, new methods in using granite in his creations.
To the right, there is a picture of John himself, surrounded by a few examples of the wide range of his talents.
John Bourdeaux is a potter of national and international repute, who creates his work in a studio set in idyllic surroundings.
Known by many of his colleagues as The Alchemist, he creates an amazing range of glazes, utilizing many local minerals.
His mastery of using precious and semi-precious metals in multiple firings has resulted in a stunning range of hand thrown lustre ware that is extremely collectable, pieces of which are already housed in private collections throughout the world
Tresco....
... perhaps the most well known of all the islands of Scilly, because of the world-wide reputation of its sub-tropical gardens. However, those Tresco Abbey Gardens do not feature on these page as present as these notes are at present based mainly on our 2007 stay in the islands - and we have not actually visited those glorious gardens for a year or two now.
The main
reason for this is that
,
as well as the point they are at their most colourful in May and our recent
visits have all taken place in August, we do so enjoy walking around the island
because of the more natural beauties that there are to appreciate her. We hope
that we have managed to bring a flavour of the riches that Tresco offers.
If we
have any criticism
it is solely in our fears
that this island's balance between preserving the natural assets and catering
for an increasing number of residential holiday makers may be in danger of
becoming rather one-sided in favour of the commercial
development
- but really, only the residents themselves are truly in a position to judge
this. In fairness, all the developments we noticed this year are of a quite
superb standard and should shortly settle to become part of the landscape.
This year's tour started from New Grimsby and we took a route via, firstly the New Inn (the only true pub on the island!) to refresh us for our walk, then on to Carn Near, the Airport, Little Pool ( in front of Tresco Abbey) and so up to and beyond Old Grimsby and the Island Hotel , heading for King Charles' Castle, from where we enjoyed the views of Cromwell's Castle, New Grimsby, Bryher, and far-distant St Mary's.
Thence back to our boat for our return to St Mary's .
St. Martin's...
The most northerly of
the islands, and thus the nearest to the mainland, which can be seen on a
clear day. We were again blessed with glorious
weather throughout the day, which was a double blessing because St Martin's
was holding its annual fete and thus looked for good weather and a
consequential bumper attendance ; they received both !!
Like all the other islands, St Martin's has its own charms -it is not just a rubber-stamp of the other islands, which each have their communities, of which they are justly proud. The various inter-islands competitions are a mark of this admirable trait.
In the same way, for the visitor, each island is different, but equally beautiful and it is for this reason that Pat and I make a eagerly look forward to visiting them all on our annual Scilly holiday. Each of the islands is something of a favourite while we are there; what other recommendation can we offer ?
We were pleased,
this
year, to be able to make a fleeting visit to the St Martin's Vineyard, which
we have seen develop over a number of years. They now produce wine of a very
good quality and a visit or conducted tour is well worth while; the gift
shop is a very useful addition for the visitor, as well.
In common with the other islands, there are countless breath-taking views to be enjoyed, and St Martin's has the beaches which a great many visitors favour - this said, it matters not which island you are visiting - you will always be able to find a superb beach for safe sun and sea bathing. It is well worth repeating, however, that it is essential that one is well protected from the Scilly sun because of the very clear air here. Sea bathing is just about always safe; there are only two beaches on the islands from which bathing is not recommended at high tide !
St.Agnes
This year we visited both this island
and Bryher in weather which was warm, but rather overcast and
therefore not in the best light
for taking photographs which will do
justice to the wonderful hues and contrasts to be found.
However, we cannot leave it at that and have therefore used some of previous years' pictures to (we hope) adequately illustrate the charms of St Agnes (right) and Bryher (below) - although no such album can possibly say it all !
What images we did capture this year were largely for the purpose of our records, featuring as they do, among other things, the work being undertaken to improve access to both islands by renovating, extending and replacing various quays (the last two images to the right).
It rather saddened us (and yet amused us a little) to hear a young lady at the quay, as we awaited the boat to take us back to St Mary's at the end of the trip, sadly bemoaning the fact that this particular area was in such a state because of the works -"it used to be so pretty", she said. Did she really not realise that in a couple of months or so, all would be as good as before, or better ?
We were also delighted to find that the birds on the islands were tamer than ever and, at St Agnes it was even possible to feed them by hand -- their table manners were impeccable! For the first time, we had managed to acquire one of the famous Turk's Head pasties, and thoroughly enjoyed them - as did the birds !!
Bryher
In common with the other
islands, Bryher has some marvellous views and for this reason is excellent
for walking, although perhaps it as.jpg)
one of the most demanding physically for those who wish to see it all, as there are a number of high points which are reached via steep paths -- the views from these are well worth the effort.
The views afforded are very much contrasting, varying between the wilder parts of the coast, where the sea is very often turbulent - Hell Bay is the most famous - to the Tresco channel which presents a calmer and usually much more peaceful scene and is thus very popular as an anchorage for small craft.
At some stage of our visit, we spend a little time in the garden of the Hell Bay Hotel which, with its pool and sympathetic planting, attracts a number of winged visitors also seeking refreshment
Other Boating Trips ...
As well as providing a ferry service to the inhabited off-islands the St
Mary's Boatmen off other, longer, trips to allow visitors to
Scilly
to see more of the archipelago. These trips are of especial interest to
those who gain a particular enjoyment in seeing wildlife of all kinds in
their natural environment - what better place than here.
Regular trips are run to the Western Islands, visiting the Bishop Rock Lighthouse which is at the furthest point west, the eastern Islands, and the 'Norrard' Rocks. Seals and Sea birds abound and it is interesting to note that the seals in particular appear to derive as much pleasure from observing the trippers as do we superior beings' in our quest for further knowledge.
These longer trips are, of course, dependant on the vagaries of the weather and it is unfortunate that, occasionally, the swell is heavier than some anticipated and that not everyone has as strong a stomach as they supposed!
A trip which is not always on offer but well worth the journey is a tour around the coast of St Mary's, which is visually interesting but greatly enhanced by the commentary, always full of information.
Evenings at St Mary's ...
Call us creatures
of
habit if you will, but we always change after dinner in order to stroll
around St Mary's at evening, taking the camera if there is any prospect of a
reasonable sunset or at least clear visibility in good light (this is the case most nights).
For sunset scenes we head for the Garrison (where,of course, the most dominant building is the 16th century Star Castle, which is now a highly rated hotel), the Quay or the Buzza - this year we were unlucky with the latter and have no images to display -- but there's always next year.
When we go up to the Garrison at evening, we often take a walk west along the footpath, in the direction of St Agnes. This is a very peaceful walk and is the more enjoyable because we know that even on the darkest nights we are in no danger of coming to harm - there is almost no crime on Scilly
We always visit the Quay and harbour before retiring to one of the excellent St Mary's pubs for a final nightcap. All the pubs have there own distinctive character and are highly recommended.
St Mary's Boatmens Association ...
Our annual holiday on Scilly is so special for us; this is due, in no small
part, to the wonderful service provided by the
boatmen of St Mary's who make it
possible for us to visit so many parts of these islands more or less at will
(weather permitting - sometimes the longer trips are not possible in adverse
conditions).
Not only do they transport us, but they keep us assured, informed, amused throughout the trips with their asides, comments and commentaries. Their wealth of knowledge and descriptive skill displayed on the longer tours is of particular benefit and interest and adds greatly to the enjoyment of our days out.
It is therefore with pleasure that we take this chance to pay a final tribute to the owners and crews of these boats, by printing images that we have accumulated over the past few years-
- we look forward to seeing them again next year.
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